A few things you need to know about the Bay Area Ridge Trail. First, you can’t through-hike the whole thing, as you might do on the John Muir Trail in the Sierras, by unfolding a tent at the end of the day. Second, the trails lie within big, unpopulated public lands, remote from public transportation depots. Third, cell phone service is spotty at best, so Uber isn’t going to help you. Conclusion: a car shuttle is imperative! If you are going to attempt the Ridge Trail, you will need a dependable hiking buddy who is willing to drive all over the Bay Area.
I started my adventure more than a decade ago with my dear friend Barbara. Barbara was a speedy walker and game for anything. She is thin and gazelle-like, and I could barely keep up with her, though she is fifteen years my senior. We were both very busy, still working, me with an active teenager too, but over the course of two years, we managed to make it through all of Marin and Sonoma counties – about twenty glorious hikes – before we stopped. Barbara was getting a bit older, and I think the rigor of locating the designated site, walking ten miles, and then shuttling back to the car was wearying her. Our endeavor worked for Marin and Sonoma counties because Barbara lived in Marin, but going forward, I realized I needed to rope in a replacement.
But who? Reluctantly, I had to hit the pause button. I had plenty of hiking buddies, but no one with the kind of stamina or ambition that BART required, given the length of the average hike, the logistics, and the overall commitment.
Years went by, when suddenly two friends – Yang and Kevin – moved back to the Bay Area. We did a few hikes together, some out in Point Reyes, some in San Francisco, and I sniffed opportunity. I pounced, “Wouldn’t you like to take on the Ridge Trail with me?” To which they gamely responded, “Yes!”
And so for the past three years, we have been pursuing our shared goal. We pick a Saturday or Sunday well in advance and plot out exactly where and when we will meet. On the appointed morning, I set my alarm, often leaping out of bed before sunrise, gulp down my coffee, pack my lunch, stash a few bottles of water into the backpack, engage Siri for my map app, and I’m off. If I’m lucky, I’ve remembered to take some Advil for the pain in my aging hip. Our goal is to meet in the terminal parking area as soon as possible to secure our car spot, then to shuttle to the second parking area for the same reason. In all of this time, remarkably, we have always arrived within a few minutes of each other, even though we live in very different locations. That is dependability.
During 2020-21, we completed the hikes on the Peninsula. I have to say I was not prepared for how magical this was! So many redwood groves, with soft needles underfoot and such fragrant surroundings! And yet, at the same time, the sadness in seeing the stumps of the old-growth redwoods, axed for the construction of San Francisco. The season of ‘21-‘22 was dedicated to the South Bay, which was quite an adventure, with trails as far south as Gilroy and a few disconnected peaks, such as Mt. Umunhum and Mt. Madonna, requiring some additional automotive hop-skipping. Closer to San Jose was a trail with Mission and Monument Peaks, which were surprisingly popular. Still, they were spectacular; as we did them in the spring, the hills were green and flooded with wildflowers, not to mention a lot of gophers. After that, we pivoted to the East Bay. At this point Kevin got a puppy, a yellow lab named Ten-Chi (meaning Heaven and Earth), so he had to drop out of the trio. By about May, Yang dug in her heels and said no more hiking until at least October. “Too hot!”
The atmospheric rivers of ’22-’23 delayed our re-entry, but we started up again this spring, sloshing and suctioning our way through some incredibly muddy trails in Contra Coasta, Solano, and Napa counties. In May, we scheduled three back-to-back hikes in Calistoga, including the fabulous Mt. Saint Helena on an absolutely clear and cool day, a fitting ending to our mission.
I wanted to celebrate, but there was just one snag: an unhiked route through the San Francisco Peninsula Watershed, inaccessible unless guided by a PUC volunteer. We had been registered for this 10-mile hike in April 2020 but were thwarted by COVID. I had given up on this segment altogether, as the PUC website never seemed to list it again, but Kevin persevered. In late June, he discovered an opening, and there I was, ready to check off the final segment of this long journey. Yang informed our ensemble that this was my last hike, and as we got to the final gate, the group burst into applause.
And there it is! A remarkable journey for me, made even more meaningful and memorable by sharing it with friends. Yang and Kevin still need to complete the Marin and Sonoma trails, and I’m hoping to be by their side, every step of the way.