Back from Rome July 8, 2017

For two years I looked forward to taking a three-week study-abroad course called Drawing Rome, an elective offered by my school.  My drawing ability isn’t that great, and this opportunity to gain some proficiency in free-hand architectural representation, whilst learning about one of the most historically and architecturally important cities on earth, really appealed to me.  Plus – Italy – what’s not to like?  

Yet I found myself somewhat disappointed, and now that I’m back I’m trying to make sense of the whole experience.  Was it worth the time?  Yes.  The money?  Not so sure.  What lessons can I draw from this?

I was actually expecting to improve in my artistic skill – fancy that! – and I had assumed that evolution would happen through a course of instruction, constructive criticism, and practice.  But there was no actual drawing instruction (save one guest lecture) and very little criticism until the final project.  We did practice several hours a day, but it often involved subject matter that held little inherent interest for me: statues, sculptures, fountains, or the interiors of Renaissance villas.  I am a slow draftsman, and rarely was I able to complete something to my satisfaction in the time allotted.  It was very frustrating, though I admit I’ve probably gained a little facility and a smidgeon of confidence despite my complaining.

I also hoped to learn a lot about Roman history, and this I did, as both instructors were very knowledgeable about Rome.  Still, that aspect was underplayed and disjointed.  I kept wondering what all the younger foreign students were gleaning from this.  To quench my thirst, I did extra reading and made independent side-trips to some of the sites I found most compelling: Ostia, the imperial fora, and the Mussolini monumental buildings in a district called EUR. 

I loved perusing the historical maps of Rome (by Nolli and Lanciani) and visiting the ancient aqueducts and the Aurelian Wall.  I enjoyed sharing an apartment with my artist friend Gail, who is not a student but allowed to join us.  I looked forward to our morning coffee in the Jewish Ghetto and our warm outdoor evenings of wine, Roman pizza, and grilled artichokes.  I liked getting to know my classmates and teachers better.

When it comes right down to it, Rome is intense.  (Of course, the daily 6-mile walks in 90-degree heat added to the oppressive feeling.)  With its 2700-year history, its layers of ancient buildings, cleverly crafted out of concrete, brick, and marble and buried under other layers from subsequent centuries, it is all hard to take in.  It is also a contradiction: while the Roman Empire built baths, theaters, forums, libraries, and sports arenas for the benefit of the common man, its violence toward people and animals was almost unspeakable, and I came away with a very bad taste in my mouth for the “glory that was Rome”.  Granted, this was an empire of amazing infrastructure and creativity, but at what price to humanity?